Gutters
A gutter is a drainage system, not a trim detail
Most of what gets called a roof leak in this market is a water-management problem at the edge of the roof. The gutter, the fascia it hangs on, the soffit behind it and the drip edge above it are one assembly, and they fail as one.
What we do
- 01Gutter replacementSeamless K-style and half-round, sized to the roof area rather than to whatever was there before.
- 02Box guttersLining and repair of built-in cornice gutters on the historic stock. A carpentry and lining job, not a gutter swap.
- 03Gutter guardsWhat the four types actually do under a mature tree canopy, and what none of them do.
- 04Gutter repairRe-hanging, re-pitching, seam and outlet repairs, and when a repair is the wrong answer.
- 05Soffit and fasciaThe board the gutter hangs on and the vented panel that feeds the attic. Both fail from the same water.
The four ways a gutter fails in this climate
- It is undersized for the roof
- A 5-inch K-style gutter handles a modest simple roof. A large plane, a steep pitch or a valley discharging into one length overwhelms it, and the water goes over the front lip in every heavy rain. That is not a leak, it is a capacity failure, and no amount of sealant fixes it.
- It is hung on rotten wood
- Fascia rots from water curling back behind the gutter. Once it is soft, nothing holds: spikes back out, hidden hangers pull through, and the gutter sags and holds standing water where it dips.
- It is pitched wrong or not at all
- A gutter needs to fall toward the outlet, roughly a sixteenth of an inch for every foot of run. A dead-level gutter holds water, and standing water in January is ice, and ice is heavy enough to pull a run off the house.
- The outlet is the bottleneck
- Downspouts, not gutters, are usually the constriction. One outlet at the far end of a long run backs water up the whole length before it ever drains.
Sizing, in the terms that are actually true
Gutter capacity is a function of the roof area draining into it, the pitch of that roof, and the rainfall intensity the area has to cope with. Pitch matters because a steep roof throws water into the gutter faster than a shallow one, so the same square footage needs more capacity.
| What is up there | What it means for the gutter | What to look at |
|---|---|---|
| One simple plane, moderate pitch, modest area | A 5-inch K-style with adequate downspouts is usually enough | Outlet count and placement, not gutter size |
| Large planes, or a steep 8:12 and up | 6-inch K-style, because velocity is as much the problem as volume | Whether the existing gutter overflows in heavy rain only |
| A valley discharging into one length of gutter | Concentrated flow that will jump a small gutter entirely | A valley diverter, a larger outlet, or a wider trough at that point |
| Historic cornice with a built-in trough | Not a hung-gutter question at all | Box gutters — a different system with different failure modes |
The most common sizing mistake in this market is replacing what was there. If the old gutter overflowed at the same two spots for fifteen years, matching it precisely reproduces the problem in new aluminum.
What wind does to a gutter
This metro records damaging wind far more often than hail, and gutters take it in two ways. The first is direct uplift on the front lip, which is why hanger spacing matters: hangers every two feet hold a run that hangers every three feet will not, and the difference only shows up in a gust. The second is the gutter apron. Without a metal apron or drip edge lapping into the trough, wind-driven rain runs behind the gutter and soaks the fascia, and a soft fascia gives up the fasteners.
Both are edge details, which is the same lesson the storm record teaches about the roof itself.
The tree canopy problem
Older neighborhoods here sit under mature oaks, maples and sycamores that were planted when the houses were built. That canopy is why gutter guards are sold so hard locally and why they disappoint so often: oak tassels in spring and maple seeds are small enough to pass most screens and fine enough to mat on a micro-mesh, and a guard that stops leaves does not stop shingle grit.
Water coming over the front of the gutter, or a run that has started to sag?
Request a free inspectionDo gutters have to come off to replace a roof?
Usually not. Where drip edge or a gutter apron has to go in behind the back of the trough, the gutter is loosened and reset rather than replaced. A gutter that is already hanging on soft fascia is a different conversation, and it is better to have it before the roof goes on than after.
Is seamless better than sectional?
For a straight run, yes: the joints in a sectional gutter are the first thing to leak. Seamless gutter is formed on site from a coil, so a run has joints only at corners and outlets, which are the places that get sealed and maintained anyway.
Should the downspouts discharge onto the ground or into a pipe?
Either works if the water ends up away from the foundation. What does not work is a buried line nobody has looked at in twenty years, which is usually full. If you have underground drains, it is worth establishing whether they still flow before deciding the gutters are the problem.
My gutters only overflow in heavy rain. Is that normal?
It is common and it is not normal. Overflow only in heavy rain is the signature of a capacity or outlet problem rather than a blockage: the trough is full before the storm is finished. Blockages overflow in ordinary rain too, and usually in one spot.
All work is performed by licensed and insured local roofing professionals.